I thought I finally had a 220 with this engine, but it didn’t quite work out the way I had hoped. So I’m using most of that engine to get my 220.
After getting the regular bearings and seals out and removing the blind bearings, I’ve got the cases broken down:
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I let the cases soak in a bucket of diesel for a couple of days while I worked on some other projects. Most of the gunk came off just from the soak:
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I don’t want to clean these any more at this point because I need to turn these cases into “Hybrid” cases. I bought this drill bit a while ago and finally have a use for it. The first part is 15mm in diameter and is used as a guide for the cutting part of the bit which is 17mm in diameter:
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Took off a little at a time:
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Almost there:
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Done:
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The material that was removed from the first case:
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Other case done:
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After many months of not working on this engine, I’m finally getting back at it. Before I do the final clean-up of the cases, I wanted to do a couple of things. First item was making the crank seals serviceable without having to split the cases. Details are HERE.
Before:
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After:
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Slight bevel on the edges to help the seal start properly:
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Other side, before:
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during:
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Almost there:
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Done with another slight bevel:
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I needed to strip the cylinder to send it off to get replated. I always seem to run into at least one stud that is frozen in place when dealing with a used cylinder. This time I got two!
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One came out with just a little more effort, but this one was really stuck in there.
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After a handful of heat/PB Blaster treatments, it finally started moving. I was starting to get concerned that I would snap the stud.
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This always seems to need heat to break loose as well:
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The cylinder is supposed to get there January 2nd.
Great work and quick turnaround, details HERE.
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I was reading this article and noticed that case lapping had come up several times. Since I had the cases apart I thought I would check that out. Sure enough, when I put them together and held up the crank area of the cases to a light, I could see areas where light was shining through.
400 grit wet/dry and a small piece of stone counter top:
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This area in particular was bad. The shiny part that the arrows are pointing to are the factory machining on the mating surface. The dull part on the other side of the arrows is what has been wet sanded.
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After the 2nd sheet of 400 grit was getting beat up, I thought I would stop. Not perfect, but so much better than before. I could have kept going, but figured I was just increasing my chances of screwing something else up.
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Remains of the lapping process:
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While the cases are still dirty, I want to match them to the cylinder. While I have the grinder out, I will do some clean-up of the cylinder as well. Details are HERE.
I looked at 3 sets of matching cases and they are all like this:
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Without factoring in the cylinder, this is the difference with just the factory gasket:
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With the cylinder bolted to each case half, here are some opportunities to improve airflow.
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Before:
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After:
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Before:
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After:
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The blue arrow is pointing to what was removed to match-up the other case half and cylinder. The red is how much the other side is off:
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If you scribe a line where the case and cylinder meet:
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This is how much they are off:
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After:
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One more spot:
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On to the cylinder. I only want to remove the casting imperfections. I have zero experience to start messing with the size and shape of the ports.
Everything the arrows are pointing to are casting flaws. Those are just little ridges, walls, partitions – whatever you want to call them – that are disrupt airflow.
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Backside:
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Same thing on the other side:
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Without making the port larger and just removing the obstructions, I got this:
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This is how it looked prior to going off to PowerSeal:
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Looks a bit nicer after the plating:
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Removed some casting flaws here,
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And here:
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And that is the extent of my grinding work to the cylinder and cases.
Circling back to the crank seal modifications. This is me staying consistent with going over board on a project. I developed the HBR Crank Seal Retainer System model 392 (patent pending), or HBR-CSRS-392 for short. More pictures are HERE:
Clutch side:
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Flywheel side:
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Now I can finally clean the cases:
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One large box of baking soda later:
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Working on dissolving all the baking soda on hot water with Dawn:
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I had to go back and rinse out some of the blind bolt holes again, they were packed with baking soda.
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Finally clean and put them in the oven at 225 degrees to speed up the drying process.
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Final tweaking of the HBR crank, more pictures HERE:
Against what was specified in the manual, I measured as far out as I could go.
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Minimal area to work with here:
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As long as you don’t laterally move the crank, easier to get a reading on the flywheel side:
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With the indicators at the extremes, I was just under .001″ on the flywheel side, The “standard” from the manual is .03mm or .0012”, but that is measured close to where the bearings are positioned.
Putting the indicators closer, but still a little farther out from what is in the manual, I could barely see them move:
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Cleaning up the crank and transmission. I really like cleaning up the crank in this container because you can easily and quickly rotate it just by grabbing the connecting rod. I want to make sure that nothing got into the bearing during the truing process:
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Works well on the transmission:
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All the bearings and misc parts to completely rebuild the bottom end:
The big day, time to get the bottom end put together. Starting with a new piece of cardboard:
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I like to center the crank in the cases. Setting the crank inside the cases and getting the gap:
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So there is my target:
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With completely stripped cases, I needed to get the bearings installed. In they go:
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I put all the bearings in the freezer the night before. Sprayed them with WD40:
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With just freezer temperatures, the crank bearings go in with no problems, but in the past I couldn’t get any of the other bearings to drop in. So I thought I would see if some dry ice would help that:
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I broke the piece in half and then put everything minus the crank bearings on the first piece:
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Then the other piece of dry ice sandwiches those bearings:
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Even though the freezer temps would be fine, I put the crank bearings on top:
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30 minutes later, I started seeing what, if any, difference the dry ice makes. Crank bearings go in no problems:
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How quickly they frost up. I like to put the cases back in the oven to warm the bearings up and get rid of the condensation:
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The big bearing on the left dropped in, but all the others didn’t. I had to press those in:
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While I’m letting the cases cool, I replaced this transmission bearing:
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The rest of the bearings installed:
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I guess I’d rather use too much loctite than not enough. I usually put some on the threads on the bolt and a drop or two on the threads in the hole. That way the loctite doesn’t “wipe-off” as the bolt threads into the hole. A q-tip or a twisted pieces of paper towel takes care of the excess.
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Ready for the transmission:
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Made sure that washer was still there:
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I will be using the “heated slug” method to put this bottom end together. I’m following the same process as I have in my video:
The key is to make sure the cases come together with no hang-ups. New dowels make that much easier . . .
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Putting the cases together with a few case bolts. This serves two purposes. First it tests to make sure the cases slide together with minimal resistance:
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And it gives you a chance to shift through the gears to make sure everything operates correctly. If you didn’t install the transmission correctly, super easy to correct it now compared to when the crank is installed and the cases are together:
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Heating up the inner race with the HBR heated crank installer (HBR-HCI):
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And with feeler gauges set, the crank drops right in:
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I bought the dry ice for another part of this installation. I’ve had it happen once or twice where something got hung-up and I didn’t get the cases together. Not the end of the world, but a pain. So I thought that by cooling down the bearing surface of the crank I would give myself a little bit of extra clearance. Using a bag of ice would be easy, but it would be messy. The dry ice was the way to go. I started pre-cooling the bearing area like this:
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While I was re-heating the HBR-HCI, I cleaned the mating surfaces several times with acetone and then coated both case halves with Yamabond 4. I’ve found using a brush goes pretty quickly and keeps me from putting on too much:
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At this point i the process I can’t take too many pictures because everything comes together rather quickly. In this picture, I have some dry ice against the bearing surface of the crank, the HBR-HCI is expanding the inner race of the crank bearing and I’ve just put Yamabond on both case halves.
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I removed the dry ice, wiped off the condensation, removed the HBR-HCI and then installed the left case. The case literally just dropped right on. It went on so easy I initially wasn’t sure it was even fully seated in place. That dry ice really made it go easy.
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After installing and torquing the 11 case bolts, the bottom end is together:
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Strange to see a KDX engine sitting like this without crank seals.
Exactly what I wanted to see. A small but continuous line of squeeze out between the case halves:
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Lubing up the bottom end while it sits and waits for the rest of the engine build:
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I will drain out the excess before I put the top end on:
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Putting some attention o the cylinder. I did a quick check and the left KIPS bore didn’t have too much build-up from the plating process. But there was room for improvement.
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I will be using the HBR Power Valve Bore Resurfacer, or HBR-PVBR to clean-up the bore:
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Starting with some 320 grit sandpaper:
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Move it in and out of the bore while spinning it with the drill:
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You don’t want to get carried away and make the diameter of the bore too large. It is best to do a little at a time and test. Final clean-up was with 400 grit wet/dry:
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Wiseco calls for a minimum ring end gap of .0108″. The .011″ feeler fits perfect, no need for filing:
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Installing the studs. A little bit of anti-seize. Make sure to install the flat-bottom end of the stud in the case, leaving the rounded end for the nuts:
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All four started, getting the first set to proper height/depth:
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Three done, last one:
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Will need to do a little bit of trimming on the stock base gasket:
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Cleaned up the KIPS:
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And then gave the cylinder a final bath in preparation for installing the KIPS:
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Installing the KIPS
Seals first:
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Getting the main valve in:
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Installing exhaust valves, right valve on right:
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Coat the valves up in straight premix:
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Drop them in the cylinder, it doesn’t matter right now how they are positioned:
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Grease up the o-ring on the right exhaust rod:
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Insert the rod in the cylinder:
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Once the exhaust rod is fully inserted, lift up the valve and rotate until the marks are timed correctly then drop it back down:
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Same process for the left side, except no grease because there is no o-ring. Just straight premix on the exhaust rod:
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Install the main valve lever:
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More straight premix on the center shaft:
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Slide it in and align the marks on the right side:
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Drop the left exhaust gear on with the marks aligned:
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More loctite on the nut:
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Some anti-seize to make removal easier next time:
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More anti-seize. I try to do that whenever steel and aluminum come in contact with each other:
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2 wraps of teflon tape:
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With the cylinder basically done, time to go back to the bottom end.
Finally time to install the crank seals and the HBR-CSRS #392.
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Flywheel side first:
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Seal started:
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Seal fully seated:
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Red loctite and double-nutted:
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Flywheel side HBR-CSRS #392 installed:
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Clutch side next:
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Seal started:
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Seal fully seated:
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Before I can install the clutch side HBR-CSRS #392, I need to get some longer bolts to compensate for the HBR-CSRS #392. A quick trip to my collection of metric bolts:
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Here we go:
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Making sure these don’t come out:
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Clutch side HBR-CSRS #392 installed:
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Ready to bolt the cylinder on. Trim up an OEM base gasket:
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I always make sure I have an extra set of circlips when installing a piston. I’ve had one too many shoot across the room and then have to spend way too much time looking for it – that is if I can even find it. They are cheap and can save a lot of time.
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Installing one circlip with the piston on the table. Circlip started:
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I found that my 3/8″ to 1/4″ adapter is the perfect fit to seat the circlip:
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Fully seated:
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Bearing installed and lubed with straight premix:
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Piston on:
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Circlip started:
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Circlip fully seated:
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Rings on:
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Cylinder installed and torqued to spec:
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A few miscellaneous items.
Brand new output shaft collar:
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New o-rings as well:
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New seal installed in the case:
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Packing tape on the output shaft:
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Slide the o-rings on:
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New sprocket as well
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Greased gasket:
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Cover installed:
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Head studs with anti-seize:
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I’ve seen a few of these gaskets get so brittle that the center support breaks off:
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So let’s just take care of it now:
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Gasket greased up and resonator cover installed along with head studs:
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Well that isn’t going to work:
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Back on track with the correct head gasket:
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I will be using a stock 220 head for now. I have a spare 220 head that has some scratches that will be sent to RB Designs later on:
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Head on, torqued to spec and a new plug installed:
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Installing some new seals and gaskets:
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More grease on the gasket:
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Another new seal:
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A quick disassembly and clean-up of the governor:
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I ordered a new governor lever just because of some of the pictures I’ve seen of the damage a broken one can cause:
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Glad I did because this one was starting to show some wear:
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New one installed:
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Kick starter assembly cleaned-up and ready to go:
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Can’t forget that thin washer:
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Ready for the clutch:
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Got some new OEM springs:
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Testing heavy wedges and silver springs:
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Clutch installed:
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Now to tighten down the clutch, primary gear and flywheel nuts. Using this special flywheel holder:
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All nuts torqued to spec:
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Dry fitting the engine cover to make sure the shifter, kickstarter and KIPS governor and water pump all fit and line up correctly:
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With everything fitting correctly, grease the gasket and bolt it in place:
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Clutch cover next:
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One last alignment of this KIPS gear:
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Some blue loctite and torque to spec:
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I need to do something about that flywheel cover.
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I’m officially calling this 220 build done. The last few things like the kickstarter, shifter, etc will be put on once the engine is back in the bike.